How to Choose the Perfect Climbing Shoes for Your Style and Skill Level
Whether you're just starting your climbing journey or are an experienced climber, finding the perfect climbing shoe is a crucial endeavor that can significantly enhance your climbing sessions and overall experience on the wall. Factors such as rubber, closures, shape, size, and stiffness are all attributes to consider, and we're here to help you determine what the perfect climbing shoe looks like for you and your style.
Shoes for Beginners: Comfort is King
If you are just getting started in climbing and are finally ready to graduate out of rental shoes, it can feel very overwhelming to pick your first pair of shoes. As a new climber, your focus on shoe selection should revolve around two basic questions: Are the shoes comfortable? (This likely associates with, are they the right size?)And do they provide decent support on a variety of holds? (Am I comfortable on big slopey holds and smaller foot chips?)
Beginner shoes tend to have a flatter, more neutral arch and shape. This means the sole is less aggressively downturned and the toe box is more rounded, giving your toes more space, and creating more flexibility through the ball of the foot. As a beginner, choose shoes that strike a balance between a stiffer sole and a toe box, which provides more support for underdeveloped foot muscles and helps you get accustomed to placing your feet precisely. Additionally, look for flexibility in the rubber so that you remain comfortable while climbing. There’s no need to worry about super-sticky rubber or a tight, pointed toe box just yet; comfort and versatility are the most important things to start with.
Lace-Ups: Customizable Fit
Lace-up climbing shoes offer the most customizable fit, making them ideal for climbers who want their shoes to fit their feet perfectly. With laces, you can tighten or loosen specific parts of the shoe to accommodate your foot shape and desired support. This customization often comes with enhanced comfort, meaning lace-up shoes are usually a good choice for climbers who will have their shoes on for an extended period (i.e., multi-pitch climbing). Frequently, lace-ups are the choice for more nuanced outdoor climbing, such as crack climbing or trad climbing, where the routes are more challenging and take longer to complete. Lace-up shoes tend to maintain a snug fit throughout a long session, and, compared to other securing closures, they experience less stretching and loss of fit over the shoe's lifespan. While lace-ups seem like an ideal shoe, they do require a few extra minutes to get on and off, and are less suited for a hard bouldering gym session where frequent shoe breaks are common.
Velcro Shoes: Convenience and Versatility
Velcro climbing shoes are the go-to shoe for indoor gym climbers and outdoor boulderers. Velcro shoes have a more flexible upper material and often feature a tongue-style pull-on design, as opposed to the long opening of lace-ups. They tend to have a slightly wider fit to allow the foot to slip in, and make up for the loss of tightness by engineering different Velcro and strap combinations to help tighten the shoe to a climber’s liking. Some styles feature angled straps with Velcro tabs that attach to the outside of the shoe, while others have more traditional-looking horizontal Velcro straps that span the entire width of the shoe. Velcro shoes come in many styles, with some providing better surfaces for toe hooks and others prioritizing aggressive shapes for precise feet. Velcro shoes provide convenience and are good for taking frequent rests during hard boulder problems. However, the velcro can wear out faster, especially when exposed to dirt and other outdoor elements.
Blunt vs. Aggressive Shoes: Knowing the Difference
Whether you're looking for Velcro or lace-up, the shape of the toe box plays a significant role in how your climbing shoe performs. A shoe with a blunt or rounded box is ideal for beginners, or a climber focused on slab, crack climbing, or terrain that requires frequent smearing.
In contrast, an aggressive shoe features a downturned, pointed toe. The rubber is often harder and comes to a finer edge. This shape is ideal for overhung routes, small footholds, and dynamic movements where tension and explosive power must be generated from small footholds. Although less comfortable, aggressive shoes are what all competition-style climbers wear to be successful on tough boulders and complex sport climbs.
If you’re still learning technique and climbing mostly face and slab walls, a more neutral or moderately downturned shoe is probably your best match. When you start projecting overhanging routes or engaging in high-level competition climbing, transitioning to a more aggressive shoe will likely help increase your performance.
Ultimately, the best climbing shoe is one that fits your foot well, complements your climbing style, and supports your skill level.
Keep in mind that sizing varies across brands, so it’s always best to try on shoes in person or order from retailers with a good return policy. Your climbing shoes should feel snug, like a firm handshake, but not so tight that they are painful.
Are you leaning toward indoor bouldering, rope climbing, or outdoor projects? Let us know what you’re working on and what your go-to climbing shoe is in the comments below!
