(And Other Gym Myths)

It happened again.

Someone strolled into the gym, grocery tote swinging, pulled out a crinkled plastic bag, and started dusting up like they were about to bake banana bread. Flour clouds everywhere. I froze, mid-shoe-lace-tying, wondering if I should offer them a mixing bowl.

Spoiler: it wasn’t flour. It was chalk. But the technique? Questionable at best.

So, in the spirit of keeping our holds grippy and our community laughing, let’s bust a few of the most persistent climbing chalk myths.

Myth #1 – More Chalk = More Grip

Here’s the truth bomb: chalk doesn’t make you stick to holds like Spider-Man. It’s not magical grip glue. It’s just there to dry out your hands by absorbing sweat and moisture.

When you coat your hands like a beignet at Café du Monde, you’re not adding friction — you’re adding dust. Too much chalk can actually make holds slick, which is the opposite of what you want.

Real talk: More chalk = more mess, not more sends. Use it when you need it, not when your hands “feel lonely.”

Pro tip: Think light dusting, not powdered donut. Your belayer and the gym’s air filters will thank you.

Myth #2 – Liquid Chalk is Only for Pros

Some climbers think liquid chalk is the fancy caviar of the chalk world — reserved for elite crushers who train on 5.14s and sleep in their vans. Not true.

Liquid chalk is actually beginner-friendly:

Less mess — you won’t look like you’ve been wrestling a chalk monster.
Longer lasting — great for warm-up laps or comp-style problems where you want consistent friction.
COVID-era perk — it’s often alcohol-based, which helps sanitize hands.

Reality check: Liquid chalk is for anyone who wants to climb longer between reapplications—no secret handshake required.

Myth #3 – Sharing Chalk Bags is Totally Fine

Yes, climbing is a community sport. No, that doesn’t mean your hands and your partner’s hands need to be in the same chalk bag.

When you share chalk, you’re basically swapping sweat, skin flakes, and whatever mystery substances you touched before your last route. And while we love the closeness of the climbing culture, some things are better left unshared.

Better plan: Keep your own bag. If you must share, offer chalk like you’d offer a snack: pour it into their hand, don’t dip.

Myth #4 – Gym Chalk = Outdoor Chalk

Indoor and outdoor climbing demand different strategies. In the gym, conditions are controlled: no rain, no wind, no surprise lichen patches. Outside, moisture, rock type, and temperature all affect how much chalk you need and how you use it.

Translation: Don’t take your “one chalk-up per hold” habit to the crag. You’ll go through a block faster than a toddler through sidewalk chalk — and you’ll leave a visible mess on the rock.

Final Chalk Wisdom

Chalk is a tool, not a magic potion. Use it wisely and sparingly, and you’ll climb cleaner, breathe easier (literally), and keep holds grippy for everyone.

And if you ever do bring flour to the gym… at least bake us something after.

When Chalk and Flour Collide: The Great Chalk Challenge